Drei Tage lang bleibt der ursprüngliche Eingang geschlossen. Die Flugbienen können aus der Mauer über die Bienenflucht raus, aber nicht wieder zurück in die Mauer. (von der Zargen Seite aus gesehen ist das Loch vom Schieber geschlossen)

Da das neue Flugloch schon bekannt ist, kommen die Flugbienen leicht in die Zarge zurück geflogen. Dort finden diese Bienen ein Rähmchen Brut ( vor allem geschlossene Brut kurz vorm Schlüpfen) und ein paar leere gebaute Waben, um den Nektar und Pollen abzuladen. Diese hat man natürlich zuvor rein gehangen.

Die Larven in der Mauer werden nicht mehr gut versorgt (mit Nektar und Wasser, weil keine Flugbienen zurück kommen).

Dann kommt der nächste Schritt :

Nach drei Tagen wird die Mauer mit dem Holzschlüssel für eins bis zwei Tage geöffnet. Das ist der Zeitpunkt, an dem die Königin in die Zarge kommt. Wenn es so ist, stellt man den Schieber auf Absperrgitter :

Die Königin kann nicht mehr in die Mauer zurück, und die Brut läuft dort aus.

Wenn die Königin nicht rein gekommen ist schliesst man wieder drei Tage, und so weiter. Der Erfinder dieses System behauptet aber, dass es immer nach diesen ersten drei Tagen geklappt hat.

Hier ist der Original Text von dem Erfinder auf Englisch. Es erklärt nochmal das System. Es kommt

von einer alten Ebay Seite, wo er es verkauft hat.

Please take note that the leading picture is not the model you are now getting. Look at picture no.

10, 11, and 12 to get the new model. It works the same as as far as getting the bees from the tree,

but I no longer incorporate the lever to work with the screen. Way too much work, hardware and

time to make it that way. The screen is placed on now at the end of the process by itself. Where it

was on from the beginning and the lever did all the settings., well now the two works separate.

The bolt on the board will allow you to place the box flush against it. As you can see you may

have to close the sides with rags or even more boards.What you are buying here is a new, unpainted

Beehive Nuc box for both raising bees and trapping bees. The feature here is that this box is

also designed to rob the queen and all the bees from a tree or building. This setup will allow you to

rob the queen, the bees, and the honey from most trees, or buildings without having to cut down the

tree or remove the wall. Once you have removed the queen and the bees then you can bring over a

new hive to set in front of the tree so they can rob the honey out of it. So, with this , you can use it

for only raising bees as a nuc box, or you can use this box to rob from the trees the nursery and

fanner bees, or the queen and all the bees. One single robbed hive and honey should pay for this.

Some trees may need some modification considering the size split in the tree the bees are in. A rule

is the smaller the size split the easier this will be to place on the tree. The foundation attachment

that comes with this will work with most trees with some extra sealing with sponges or old cloths.

Once you have the bees coming only out of the foundation board hole, then you can hook up the

box. The screen is used in two of the stages.

It will take 5 stages to complete once attached to the tree or building. The biggest split in a tree I

have ran across was about 18 in. long and 3 to 6 in. wide. Easy steps hanging it and easy leaving

with it.There are two ways to take the bees. One by putting supers on it as they build up in your

hive's single box (since the Queen is trapped in your box and can no longer lay eggs in the tree).

The other is to keep taking them away by frames into other nuc boxes making sure you do not take

the queen until you have cleaned out all bees. I prefer taking the frames with eggs in them along

with the nursery and fanner bees until you have gotten all the bees out, then it is honey robing time.

I am sure of the method because I have had the success with it. The slider bar allows you to set the

trap from the outside without going into the box if you do not want too. It allows (1) for just taking

field bees, (2)Just taking house keepers, (3)Taking both and leaving it from there. Or (4) a few

maneuvers will get all the bees even the queen. Step one is engaging the slider to have all access in

and out of the tree of all bees coming and going. First by bringing in a brood frame with eggs.

Checking in a few hours to see the house keepers over (And Possible queen, but unlikely this soon).

If the queen is over that soon (Unlikely) then you can slide the bar to put the queen excluder on the

hole. This will make sure the queen will not get back in the tree If the box is too full you will need

to take some out on the frame you brought leaving the queen to stay. You will need to replace the

brood frame with another. You will also note the date and wait 22 days to insure all eggs and larvae

has hatched in the tree. Then you can slide the bar all the way in and close all contact to the tree

leaving a route for any field bees to still come out the screen tunnel , but can only return to the box.

What forces the bees over is that when you get your first house keepers over, Check for queen,

but not likely so quick that she will be there, you then slide bar all the way in causing the bees in the

box not to be able to go back and forth, Only the field bees will leave out but can only come back in

the box in one day you will have more than you need if you just want a starter amount. They are

loaded with their honey, pollen etc. and will have to build and pack inside of your box. Three days

latter you will have a queen cell and worked cone from the tree bees. Since you will be having to

removes bees every so often anyway because of the migrations as this continues, then I take the

bees on the brood frame out and replace it with a new brood frame. This time I want all stages of

brood and specifically those capped and ready to hatch that day , or just a couple days away at the

most. I still want eggs as well. I leave the tree open for all the bees to re adjust for what they have

gone through. Some will go back into the tree, but now there is work already out there in the box

"done by them". The queen likes to lay eggs in "fresh cleaned" cells. That is why the capped bees

are needed to be there and hatching out. This could be happening within 4 days all together, and this

is when she is to come over. Wait about two more days and if she is not over close off the tree again

and it will get worked again just like the first time. When all the field bees can not take their supply

back into the tree they will again treat this as their new hive, will again attempt a queen cell etc.

But mainly have more of their own work in the box.Wait three days(This cause the bees in the tree

to suffer some) and you will have an over crowded box, Open it up to the tree again, there will be

much more work now done in your box. This is where the queen is likely to come over and even

have an extended stay laying eggs. I have not had to go the second round on this so far, she has laid

eggs on the first cycle.

Full instructions and phone number will be provided.

Trap out System, Anleitung und Erfahrungsbericht

Das Ganze auch als PDF Datei:

Trap out.pdf

Diesen Holzschieber kann man in der Holzplatte frei in beide Richtungen schieben. Dies ermöglicht 3 verschiedene Einstellungen in der Holzplatte.

Holzschieber passt:

Bienenflucht sichtbar:

Bienenflucht im Detail. Ein Stück Gitter verschliesst den Gang an der Aussenseite bis auf die Öffnung.

Hier zum Einsatz der ganzen Sache:

Es darf natürlich nur ein Eingang frei sein und eventuelle andere Nebenfluglöcher sind zu schliessen zum Beispiel Stofffetzen oder ähnlich.

Die Öffnung der Platte muss auch schön dicht ansitzen am Flugloch. Hier habe ich einen Schwamm (mit weissem Klebeband befestigt) benutzt, um es abzudichten:

Auf dem Foto ist das ganze Teil ans Mauerwerk rangedrückt, sodass die Bienen nur vorne aus der Zarge kommen können (das neue Flugloch jetzt):

Als erstes müssen sich die Flugbienen an den neuen Eingang gewöhnen und sich einfliegen. Das heisst die Zarge ( mit Deckel, Dach und Boden) mit Platte hängt an der Mauer für ein oder zwei Tage. Dafür ist der Schieber auf Position Offen wie auf folgendem Bild :

Das heisst die Bienen können frei zwischen Kasten und Mauer zirkulieren.

Sobald das neue Flugloch richtig benutzt wird und auch Wächterbienen zu sehen sind kann der nächste Schritt eingeleitet werden.

Das heisst der Schieber wird auf Position Bienenflucht oder Geschlossen gestellt :